Lhotse Expedtion
Trip Facts:
  • Height: 27,939 feet (8,516 meters)
  • Location: Khumbu, Nepal/Tibet, Asia
  • Lat/Lon: 27.9667°N, 86.9333°E

Lhotse stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.
Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.
Lhotse Main was first climbed in 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition. Lhotse Shar was first climbed on December 5, 1979 by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter by taking the SE-ridge. It was not until 2001 that Lhotse Middle was conquered by the Russian Expedition (See below for details).

CLIMB HISTORY

  • Year Event Notes / Team
  • 1956 First ascent of main summit On May 18th, the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss
  • and Fritz Luchsinger became the first people to summit Lhotse.
  • 1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar A Japanese expedition failed in the attempt
  • but managed to reach 8100m.
  • 1979 First ascent of Lhotse Shar On May 12, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of
  • Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar
  • 1981 Second Ascent of Lhotse Shar
  • First solo ascent without the use of oxygen
  • A Swiss team makes 2nd successful ascent
  • April 30, 1981 by Hristo Prodanov from Bulgaria
  • 1984 Third successful ascent of Lhotse Shar May 20th by a team from
  • Czechoslovakia
  • 1996 First female summit of Lhotse Chantal Mauduit becomes the first female to reach the top of Lhotse
  • 1999 Failed traverse attempt A Russian team trying to become the first to
  • summit Lhotse Middle and to traverse the three summits fails due to weather.
  • 2001 First ascent of Lhotse Middle On May 23, 2001, the first ascent of Lhotse
  • Middle was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Serguei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov
  • and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition
The Lhotse Face/Route
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m (3,700ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogoslavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. In 1985,1987 and 1989 three Polish expedition tried to climb the wall. The highest point they reach was 8300 meters. During the last expedition, Jerzy Kukuczka-the second person who climbed all 8000 meter peaks died during the attempt. Another expedition in 1989 lead by Reinhold Messner failed due to problems between members.

In 1990 Tomo Cesen said that he climbed the wall via Yugoslavian route. The climb caused much controversy because many climbers didn't believe that the wall, which was unclimbed by so many good climbers, was by climbed by single person. He later changed his mind claiming that he didn't reach the top but the summit ridge. However, public opinion is that he reached only about 7000 meters.

The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.

When To Climb
As for all the Himalayan peaks there are two main seasons. Pre-monsoon season runs from April through May. Post monsoon season runs from late September through

ITINERARY

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and hotel transfer

Day 02 – 03: Official formalities and expedition preparation

Day 04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding

Day 05: Trek to Namche

Day 06: Rest at Namche

Day 07: Trek to Tengboche

Day 08: Trek to Dingboche

Day 09: Trek to Lobuche

Day 10: Rest day for acclimatization

Day 11: Trek to Base Camp

Day 12-39: Climbing period

Day 40: Cleaning of base camp

Day 41: Trek to Dingboche

Day 42: Trek to Tengboche

Day 43: Trek to Namche

Day 44: Trek to Lukla

Day 45: Fly to Kathmandu

Day 46: Free day in Kathmandu.

Day 47: Airport transfer for international flight.

DATE
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PRICE
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COST INCLUDES:

  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance & insurance for base camp staff ( sirdar,cook, kitchen boy and liaison officer )
  • Flights to transfer climbing members, staff, liason officer and cargo of theclimbing gear.
  • Food and fuel at the base camp
  • All camping equipment at the base camp such as, member tent, dining tent,kitchen tent, chairs, tables.
  • Trek support for climbing members from Lukla-base camp-Lukla.
  • Porters to carry loads from Lukla-base camp-Lukla
  • Royalty and peak permit
  • Airport arrival and departure
  • Accommodation at 3 or 4 star hotels in Kathmandu before and after the
  • expedition on BB plan


COST EXCLUDES:

  • High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
  • Climbing equipment, tents and personal equipment above base camp
  • Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue operation