Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition
Ama Dablam (6,812 m.) Expedition

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu region, it lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions.
The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.


Expeditions Itinerary:


Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel. In Kathmandu, we will stay at the Hotel. Team members will be accommodated on a twin share basis. If you prefer, you may have a single
room for which a supplement is payable.

Day 02: Gear Check. Rest of day at leisure.
The priority for the day will be to check everyone's equipment to make sure that it is equal to the conditions one can expect on Mt. Ama Dablam. The afternoon will be free for any last minute purchases that you may need to make from the well stocked climbing shops in the city.

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m) & commence trekking to Phakding (approx
An early start to the airport to catch the 45 minute flight to the STOL airstrip at Lukla. It is a memorable flight, with marvelous views of the Eastern Himalaya. Our crew and porters assemble and after a light lunch we commence the trek towards Phakding. We head downhill towards the Dudh Kosi,a raging river that drains the southern flanks of all the peaks of the Everest region. The broad and well-marked trail leads to Namche Bazaar. Our aim throughout this expedition is to weave in and out of these busier trails and explore some of the more remote and preserved parts of the Khumbu. It is however almost impossible to avoid the crowds during the first few days of trekking.

Day 04: To Jorsale (approx 2700m)
The steep slopes and streams we traverse around, run down from Kwangde peak (6187m) and Nupla (5885m), and are less suited to farming resulting in fewer inhabitants. We enjoy the thick forests of chir pine and views eastward to Kusum Kanguru Himal as we follow the valley toward Namche. Camp is set in a pleasant, secluded site in the forest above Jorsale.

Day 05: To Namche Bazaar (3440m)
Moving on, we cross the thundering glacial river, named 'Dudh' (milk) Kosi (river) because of its colour and rejoin the main trail from here. There seems to be a never ending trail of yaks and people; local traders, commuters and trekkers, all making their way up to or down from the busy market village of Namche Bazaar. The climb of approx 600 metres from the valley floor and river
junction of the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi is wide and winding and good preparation for our many climbs ahead in the program. To our right as we ascend, we can see the beautiful jagged peaks of Thamserku (6808m) with Kang Taiga (6780m) behind. Eventually we round a corner in the trail and enter the bowl where the town is situated, completely enveloped by rugged slopes and mountains. Our accommodation in Namche is in a lodge for convenience and practicality, one that is exclusive for World Expeditions trekkers and set at the top of this busy market town.

Day 06: In Namche Bazaar
A day in Namche is an important part of our acclimatisation process and can be used to explore the area. It is our first opportunity to see Mt Everest, as well as many other peaks of the region. The "Panda's Ears" of Kang Taiga, next to Thamserku, can be seen more clearly, as well as Ama Dablam (6860m), Taweche and Cholatse, and further away, Lhotse and Nuptse shrouding Mt Everest. As we trek higher over the coming weeks we will see these peaks and many more from differing perspectives.

Day 07: To Phortse (3850m)
Trekking behind and away from Namche we pass by the Everest View Hotel and the lovely tall conifers that surround the knoll it is situated upon. In the large basin behind set below the high cliffs of Khumbila peak lie the towns of Khumjung and Khunde. We traverse towards the Imja Khola, over a small ridge at Mong La and a number of steep staircases to descend to the river at Phortse Tenga. Crossing the river, we leave trekking groups and yak trains behind, and climb steadily up through fine forest of silver birch, fir and rhododendron toward Phortse. In this region more fauna is likely to be spotted than perhaps anywhere else in Khumbu; look out for impeyan pheasant, Nepal's national
bird, blood pheasant, musk deer and Himalayan Thar. Camp is set in one of the upper terraces.

Day 08: To Tshom Og (4300m)
This true left bank of the Dudh Kosi and Gokyo Valley is steep, spectacular and little travelled, making for good adventure trekking. As we follow high yak herders trails to the head of the valley, we gain a good view across to Kyajo Ri (6186m) and rocky peaks that run parallel to us as well as the continuum of villages beneath them servicing the main trail and used in the summer for grazing by the farmers of Khumjung and Khunde. Camp is made in a spectacular setting among yak pastures at Tshom Og.

Day 04: Tshom Og acclimatisation day
Acclimitisation day in Tshom Og

Day 05: To Gokyo (4750m)
We continue traversing the slopes, passing through small settlements before rejoining the main trail to Gokyo. This is one of the prettiest locations of the Khumbu, a succession of azure blue glacial lakes set beneath towering, rugged peaks dusted in snow, and tremendous views attained from slopes above Gokyo. Our campsite is on the outskirts of this small settlement overlooking one of the
lakes and with views of the immense Ngozumpa glacier and Everest to the East.

Day 06: Day trip to Gokyo Ri
A day is set aside to rest from our routine. We will make a side trip up to Gokyo Ri (hillock). The 2 hour hike up Gokyo Ri beside the village and the large Gokyo Lake is well worth the effort for our first panoramic Himalayan views. In clear weather there are spectacular views across to Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and close by; Mt Cho Oyu.

Day 07: Rest and preparation day
We plan to spend several hours rehearsing and revising techniques we will apply to our ascents of Lobuche East and Ama Dablam. Your guide will coordinate these activities to ensure everyone is completely conversant in procedures and correctly equipped.

Day 08: To high camp above Dragnag (5200m)
Taking our ascent rate steadily, we follow the main trail across the Ngozumpa glacier towards the Cho La pass, up rolling grassy slopes and then moraine to a camp at 5200 metres. We are situated in a pretty side valley opposite the Cho La.

Day 09: Over Cho La (5,420) and on to Lobuche East BC (4800m)
We start early to take advantage of the firm snow conditions and what is usually the most stable weather conditions. It may take us approximately two hours to reach the saddle of this glaciated pass and we are rewarded with expansive views. The crossing is not technical but good boots, gaiters and a walking pole are useful. As we cross the pass we enter the Khumbu valley and a whole
new vista of peaks, the north aspects of Cholatse and Taweche, Ama Dablam, Makalu off in the distance and Lobuche East rearing up to our north. The descent is not quite as steep as the climb and more snowy to begin with, as we follow a glacier down to its terminus before the valley drops off steeply in a series of glacier-polished cliffs. We descend to our base camp for Lobuche, which is
off to the left of the main trail in moraine.

Day 10: Preparations at Base Camp, trek to Lobuche C1 5200m
During the morning we are able to pull out all our climbing gear; sort and check it, and again rehearse and revise techniques we will use on the climb. It will only be necessary to take personal gear for the climb with you up to the high camp, and this will include your sleeping bag and mattress. Group gear, such as tents, food, fuel and group climbing equipment/ropes etc will be carried up by some of our porters and staff. The remainder of gear will be stored at base camp where some of our staff will also stay until our return. We move up to C1 after lunch, approx 3 hours above BC, and enjoy a beautiful camp site next to a small lake and with incredible views of Ama Dablams imposing north face.

Day 11: Contingency Day
Contingency Day

Day 12: To High Camp on Lobuche East (5600m)
We move up to a high camp on the mountain, and it should take us about 3-4 hours to climb up bouldery scree and some snow to the site of high camp. We are set on a small plateau of snow high above the Khumbu Glacier. Again tents are shared so as to keep the load numbers down and it's early to bed for a very early alpine start.

Day 13: Attempt summit of Lobuche East (6119m) and return to base camp
An early start (around 2.30am) sees us climbing the south west ridge, which is a mixture of moderately steep snow and ice. Where necessary, we fix ropes along the route. We ascend steadily to a plateau at around 6000m, and then traverse around to an exposed ridge, which we will follow to the summit slopes. Approximately 4 hours of steady climbing brings us to the far eastern summit.
From here it is a steady climb along the summit ridge towards the east summit with the main summit not far in distance. The final section of the climb is not for the faint-hearted and is quite technical with huge drops on both sides. From the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam , Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung Kang, Cho Oyu. After a full day's climbing, we retrace our steps back to High Camp, pack up, then with weary legs head down to base camp. The day's climb could be anywhere between twelve and fifteen hours, depending on conditions and our progress.

Day 14: Rest Day
Rest Day

Day 15: To Ama Dablam BC (4700m)
A lovely day's trekking down and along some very scenic Himalayan valleys. We trek past the turquoise Chola Lake, beneath the peak of Taweche and cross the trail that leads to Everest base camp at Dughla. From here we head further down the valley through Pheriche, before crossing the Imja Khola just outside the village of Pangpoche. We enjoy lunch on the banks of the river before
climbing up towards Ama Dablam base camp.

Day 16: Rest day Ama Dablam BC and Ama Dablam Preparatory
Rest day Ama Dablam BC and Ama Dablam preparatory day

Day 17: Ascent of Ama Dablam 6856m
The next few days we undertake the ascent of Ama Dablam 6856m

Day 18: Contingency Day
Contingency Day

Day 19: To Namche Bazaar
Having hopefully been successful on Ama Dablam we descend through a pretty rhododendron forest to the Tengpoche Monastery, before making our way across to Namche. We may stop here, in a lodge above the town, or continue on our way, down valley to Monjo.

Day 20: To Lukla (2800m)
We descend the slopes of Namche to the Dudh Kosi joining the main trail to follow at riverside through numerous villages to Phakding. On crossing the bridge, we trek a short distance up and around, to the broad flat spur that Lukla lies upon. The last night is always memorable for an end of trip celebration with all the crew and porters.

Day 21: Fly to Kathmandu
This morning, fingers crossed, we fly to Kathmandu and transfer to the Radisson Hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure to rest, relax or explore and shop in the town.

Day 22: Day at leisure in Kathmandu
A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.

Day 23: Departure from Kathmandu Kathmandu
Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket, departure tax (in local currency) and your passport handy. Our staff will
take you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.

The price includes:
• All internal flights and hotel/airport transfers
• Accommodation at 3 star hotel in Kathmandu
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• All camping facilities and meals during the expedition.
• All porterage costs.
• All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers
• kitbag or Fleece top.
The price does not include:
• Visa fees.
• Nepalese airport taxes.
• Bar bills and laundry.
• Travel insurance.
• Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
• Optional trips and sightseeing tours.
• Tips.

The Mountain
Like the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, Ama Dablam epitomises all that is grand about the mountains. Its striking features have become a familiar figure to the public through its adoption as the logo of 'Perpetual', an international assurance company, and numerous posters and books throughout the world. Such impressive beauty has made Ama Dablam a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes. As you might expect for such a mountain, some of these routes are of the highest order of difficulty.
Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe. A route description is included in the detailed itinerary.
Expedition Timing
Our expedition takes place during the early winter season. One of the main benefits of this is that we avoid the congestion that occurs on the SW Ridge during the highly popular pre and post monsoon seasons. Having many teams on the mountain at the same time prevents freedom of movement, causes overcrowded campsites, increases objective dangers and reduces the quality of the overall mountain experience.

November and December are characterised by cold but settled weather, giving good climbing conditions and fabulous views. While temperatures are lower than during the main climbing seasons there is less precipitation and the skies tend to be clearer. This is borne out by the considerable success of our recent winter expeditions to Ama Dablam.
All of our expeditions are led by qualified and experienced mountain guides or mountaineering instructors. In selecting suitable leaders, we not only look to ensure that they have the relevant qualifications but we also ensure that they have a good track record of mountaineering at high altitudes. Whilst qualifications and experience are essential requirements, we also make sure that our leaders have the right temperament to lead an expedition comprised of individuals who have a range of previous experience and expectations. To that end, we aim to provide a leader who will make the expedition both successful and enjoyable throughout.

All of our leaders are personally known to us, having normally led several expeditions for us previously. They are familiar with what we expect from them and how we like them to run expeditions on our behalf. Their main aim during the expedition will be to ensure that you derive optimum benefit from taking part in the climb and to maximise every individual's chances of reaching the summit. However, as experienced and qualified mountaineers, they will always operate with safety as the prime consideration. In the past, the careful selection of our expedition leaders has proved to be a major asset in the continuing success of our expeditions and the overall enjoyment of the team members taking part.
Our leaders also hold a current mountain first aid certificate and have experience of dealing with the symptoms of acute mountain sickness and other altitude related illness.
Team Composition
The expedition leaders will be supported by a number of handpicked climbing Sherpas, who will have climbed Ama Dablam and mountains such as Everest and Cho Oyu with Jagged Globe. We will have a cook team in base camp.

Experience Required
The expedition grade reflects the technical nature and physical toughness of the climb. Whilst the altitude of the summit is relatively modest, climbing on steep ground and carrying a pack of 10-15Kg is a considerable step up from, for example, expeditions graded 3B (e.g. Khumbu Climber, Bolivian Climber), where c6,000m summits are reached from one high camp.
To join this expedition and have a good chance of success you need:
* To be confident on Alpine AD routes, Scottish grade IV and able to climb rock at VS (UK) or 5.7 (USA).
We also recommend that you have:
* Previous expedition experience and experience of mountains at altitudes above 6,000m.
Although ropes are fixed the whole way to the summit, climbers need to be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice. You also need to be psychologically prepared for and personally well organized to cope with living high on a precipitous mountain in cold conditions. To discuss what is involved in this expedition in more detail, please contact us.
Porter Protection
Any trek or expedition to Nepal relies on the hard work of local porters. It is their carrying of our supplies and baggage that makes a journey into the mountains possible. We are very much careful to ensure that they are well treated, not exploited and have good protection from the elements. We provide shelter, clothing and footwear that match the severity of the environment. Porters who become sick are treated with the same care and attention as team members, and we have used helicopters, at our expense, to rescue porters from hazardous situations.

Our company supports the work of the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), and provides help and advice to those organizations to improve the working conditions of the porters on whom we depend. All trekkers are asked to provide feedback on porters' working conditions in post-trip questionnaires.

To join the expedition to Ama Dablam you need the following specialist equipment:

  • Technical Ice Axe.
  • Technical Ice Hammer.
  • Crampons.
  • Harness.
  • 2 x Tape slings.
  • 3 x Screwgate Karabiners.
  • Descendeur / Abseil Device.
  • Ascendeur (Jumar).
  • Prussik Loops.
  • Double boots (e.g. La Sportiva Spantik or Scarpa Phantom 8000).
  • Overboots are required if using standard plastic boots.
  • 2 x 5 Season Sleeping Bags.
  • Full weight down jacket/salopette combination.

A complete climbing equipment and clothing list will be provided to you after you make a booking with us.